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Katy
de Roeck
"The
morning began in Clarksdale. After leaving the Shack-Up Inn we stopped
for breakfast at a BP and then headed towards Greenwood to the Dancing
Rabbit Bookstore. Greenwood is the town where Richard Rueben spent
his time in Mississippi writing for the Commonwealth. The bookstore
was owned by a woman named Carol Ann, who offered us sausage balls,
orange juice, milk, coffee, and -in the true spirit of southern
hospitality- mimosas. We talked to Carol Ann about Greenwood and
how it has or hasn’t changed in the past however many years
she’s been there. She mentioned the city starting programs
attempting to create social life downtown, but she didn’t
really mention much about change in social improvements along the
lines of racial or economic equality. From what we could tell, the
schools were still segregated and she did mention that the Crystal
Club, noted in Mr. Reuben’s book, had become the Crystal Grill,
dropping the required membership that was needed to eat at the restaurant.
The Crystal Club membership had been a loophole to avoiding segregation
laws. This change apparently occurred not so long ago, as I noticed
a sign in the parking lot designating it the parking for The Crystal
Club. Even still, I don’t recall seeing any African American
patrons in the restaurant besides the ones in our group. The grill
didn’t look exactly as I expected it to, but Greenwood as
a whole didn’t look exactly as I had expected. I think from
Mr. Reuben’s descriptions I was expecting dirt streets and
something a little more “redneck”, but I guess to a
New Yorker, it would appear to be the epitome of southern. There
has been about 15 years I think since Mr. Reuben had been there,
but according to what Ms. Carol Ann said I don’t think it
had changed very drastically.
On the way to the Tunica
we stopped back by Clarksdale to see Morgan Freeman’s blues
club. The appearance of the place was in keeping with the rest of
Clarksdale, but I sort of expected more out of a club owned by Morgan
Freeman. I suppose that if the club had looked as I expected, it
would not have fit into its’ surroundings. Blues are an important
part of the southern culture, as the man at the gas station proudly
reminded us.
The evening
ended with our arrival at the Gold Strike Casino Resort in Tunica,
Mississippi. As Dr. Smith had mentioned earlier, a casino is the
perfect example of society exploiting citizens. There were people
inside sitting at machines and tables who stayed at those machines
and tables throughout the evening, losing money and making money,
but mostly losing money. The ironic part of this casino was its’
location. It seemed to me that in the midst of all the poverty we’d
experienced throughout the week and all the statistics we’d
found through the census reports for the state of Mississippi, here
we were watching people drop money that statistics report they don’t
have and this large industry is profiting from it. It doesn’t
make much sense to me that this is the solution that the state found
to improve the economic situation within the state, which unlike
the lottery has no benefits for the state funds. How could our society
justify setting a huge money consuming industry such as a casino
in the middle of such destitution that literally miles down the
road there were homes that couldn’t afford luxuries such as
running water or electricity??
The discomforting
part of this as well is that now that I know situations such as
these exist, and yes, I reluctantly admit that I too contributed
a small amount of money to this exploitative industry, I now feel
that I have some kind of responsibility to do something besides
be aware. It seems like an impossible task to level the playing
field of opportunity when there is such a drastic gap in the different
standards of living. It seems that money is always the issue. For
example, the cities thinking that they are making city-wide improvements
by restoring downtowns and improving the appearance of towns. So
the city appears above the poverty level, but what good does that
do the individuals who are well below the poverty level? Dr. Hattery
mentioned the need for teachers and educational advances in towns
such as Tunica, Mississippi, and I supposed when you get down to
it that is the key to improving conditions, to change current conditions
so that gradually the future will see improvement instead of maintaining
an average of mediocrity."
Drew
Today
we started out from the Shack Up Inn and headed towards Greenwood,
MS. We met with Carol Ann Adams, who was the owner of a quaint bookstore
called the Dancing Rabbit. I went to the store thinking that she
had the only store that would sell Richard Rubin’s because
no one else would carry his book. It turns out that the reason was
because the town was so small and that was the only store in the
area. After the group talked with Mrs. Adams for a while we went
to lunch at the Crystal City Grill. The history behind the restaurant
is that it was a segregated establishment that was only frequented
by whites and one must have a membership to dine there. When we
walked in the restaurant everyone was looking at us and I felt uncomfortable.
I’m not sure if it was because we were a large group or the
fact that there were African-Americans in our group.
We went back to Clarksdale, MS and visited a blues museum and went
to Ground Zero, a famous blues club. It’s easy to see why
the blues could come out of a region as poor as the delta. There
is no reason to be happy in the conditions that many of the people
live in, so this mood is carried over into the music.
As we drove to our hotel that night, the Gold Strike casino in Tunica,
MS, I was looking out the windows of the bus and I could see how
poor some of the homes were. Some of the houses looked so dilapidated
and run down. I couldn’t believe that people actually lived
in these conditions. Once we got to the hotel and were checked in
we went to dinner. We had to walk across the casino floor to eat
dinner. I was looking around at some of the people who were gambling
and most of them looked like they shouldn’t be spending their
money here. We talked earlier how many of the employees of the casino
were making minimum wage or just a little bit more. It not right
that the casino can bring in so much money into the area but none
of that money is distributed to it’s employees or the surrounding
areas. They may bring in new jobs, but new jobs at minimum wage
won’t support a family or help you save for things that will
help acquire the next level.
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